As Calgary’s glass towers disappear into the distance, prairie gives way to rolling foothills and the Rocky Mountains take over the landscape, I stand on the back of Canadian Pacific Railway’s Mount Stephen car on the same platform where world leaders and royalty once perched.
The distinctive black-topped maroon passenger car, built in 1926 for $72,522, is outfitted with leather armchairs and plush couches, and is where, according to CP lore, Winston Churchill, Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Mackenzie King talked strategy before the Quebec Conference in 1943 when the Allies plotted the D-Day invasion of Nazi-occupied France. On the walls hang pictures of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth during their 1939 Canadian tour, Princess Elizabeth and the Duke of Edinburgh during their coast-to-coast trek in 1951, as well as Churchill with King on that historic ride, each person standing in the same place I have settled in.
On this excursion, three diesel locomotives power the 12-car train, which includes a recently completed museum car that tells the 128-year-old story of CP, and its inseparable link to the development of Canada as a nation. We are bound for Field, B.C., 220 kilometres west, in Yoho National Park or, more chiefly, the Spiral Tunnels carved through the indefatigable Kicking Horse Pass. Construction of the Spiral Tunnels is credited with helping goods and people move more quickly – and safely – across the spine of the continent.
“In the railway industry, it’s known as the holy place of railroading,” says Doug Welsh, a retired 33-year veteran of CP, who is along for the ride.
When British Columbia joined Confederation in 1871, it was on the condition that prime minister John A. Macdonald agreed to tie it by rail to the rest of fledgling country. CP plugged away at the project, but faced a significant challenge on the steep western slope of the Rockies. The railway could have found an easier route by looking farther north, but it didn’t want to chance abandoning territory to tenacious American railroaders to the south.
Under pressure to complete the transcontinental railway, CP was excused from the railway rule of track that the grade not exceed 2.2 per cent. Trains were not supposed to climb or descend more than 2.2 feet for every 100 feet of track (the railway still operates exclusively in imperial measures), but CP would be allowed a 4.5-per-cent grade. What was supposed to be a temporary fix, which was completed in 1884 and became known as Big Hill, lasted 25 years.
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By Dan Walton, Globe and Mail, >>> continue reading





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